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+-- Forum: Technical (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=4)
+--- Forum: Member's Projects (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=12)
+--- Thread: The Daytona Project (/showthread.php?tid=2636)
- Dave - 08-01-2006
BLINGMW Wrote:BTW, you're only going to be reading that one cyl temp, but I'm sure you knew that.That is the primary reason why I would put it post-turbo, b/c then the temp would be averaged. The problem with this would be that the turbo itself might elevate the temperature higher.
I guess the best way to do this, given Channing's response, would be to find out which cylinder gets the hottest, determine what it's average temp would be and pick an appropriately rated sensor to be able to withstand any heat overloads. Very interesting discussion here, since I had also heard Pete's comment before.
- Jeff - 08-01-2006
#3 is the hottest, but #4 is the standard :wink: Everyone is moving toward the 3rd runner for there probes but most vendors still sell them ported in #4 like this one. The probe will funk the turbo if it breaks off... but it is a high quality autometer joint and like Chan said, if it gets hot enough to melt a piece off of it the car is screwed anyway. I should see 1500 at WOT where the sensor is at right now. More pics when I get home!!!
- Jeff - 08-01-2006
Pete, let me be clearer and less rushed. I was in a hurry when I made that last post. Basically, the EGT gauge is useless unless you know what temp to look for right? Until you blow a motor up yourself with the probe at that point there is no way to know what the max is. So if I put my probe in the downpipe 15in from the turbo I would have no idea what EGT to shoot for. In turbododges there is a standard point where the probe should be mounted. The one agreed upon variable is how far from the head, 1in. The question is which runner. The standard for years was the 4th runner (where mine is). It is typically the hottest. Now, for some reason, the #3 is considered the choice because it is the hottest according to many TD gurus who run 4 probes. There is no need to average them all, and actually it skews the reading and there is no way to compare it to the rest of the community in troubleshooting situations. The probe is fairly resistant and stands up well. If the probe were to fail, odds are your EGTs are too high for the pistons. Stock pistons melt down at 1550degrees (in #4, 1in from the head) The forged babies I got can take 1700ish. So, the gauge goes to 1600...as long as I don't pass that I should be ok
NEW PICS AND COOL SHIT!!!
![[Image: DSC00552Medium.jpg]](http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c133/TurboOmni08/DSC00552Medium.jpg)
Ported 2.5in swingvalve next to stocker 2.265in swingvalve
CLOSE UPS!!!
![[Image: DSC00554Medium.jpg]](http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c133/TurboOmni08/DSC00554Medium.jpg)
![[Image: DSC00553Medium.jpg]](http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c133/TurboOmni08/DSC00553Medium.jpg)
It does not look smooth, but it is. At least it is smoother then the cast iron was anyway. I ground out the huge ridge that restricts airflow, basically turning it into a turbonetics type piece.
NEW SHIT!!! 3in cat came in!
![[Image: DSC00556Medium.jpg]](http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c133/TurboOmni08/DSC00556Medium.jpg)
![[Image: DSC00557Medium.jpg]](http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c133/TurboOmni08/DSC00557Medium.jpg)
![[Image: DSC00558Medium.jpg]](http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c133/TurboOmni08/DSC00558Medium.jpg)
Now for a question. My PLX M-300 says it can only take 850 Degrees C. Now that is 1560 or something in F. So, my stock O2 sensor is in the swingvalve. They say it should be at least 24in from the turbo as a "general rule." Does anyone have any opinion on if I should use the stock local or move it into the downpipe? I really want to use the stock place but I don't need to ruin the sensor.
- D_Eclipse9916 - 08-01-2006
if your seeing over 1560, you screwed....aside from that...I would say move it down so it lasts longer...
- PDenbigh - 08-02-2006
When I still had my 3" exhaust I had the Wideband O2 just before the cat, under the car. I toasted one b/c I had it too close to the turbo...
- JustinG - 08-02-2006
i put mine probably 3feet from the turbo.....may have been a little far but it still works
- Jeff - 08-04-2006
Arrived/purchased locally today-
3in exhaust
02 sensor bung
Shipped today-
Clutch, from manufacturer.
- Jeff - 08-09-2006
Clutch came in today!!! ECU shipped today!!! STARTED ON NEW VALVE COVER!!!
- Jeff - 08-14-2006
New Valve Cover is painted. Has a few small problems, but I guess it could never be as good as the first one huh? We also pained one side of the spoiler so we could get an idea of what it will look like
I won't give a "spoiler" buy showing a pic...but its going to be cool! Turbo should ship the middle of this week. I guess it should all be ready to go back together....as soon as I come back to school... 
- Jeff - 09-12-2006
I contacted the guy who I ordered my turbo from. He tells me Turbonetics is dicking him around and as of last night he e-mailed them threatening to cancel 3 orders if he did not get an explanation for the time it is taking by today. So I am just waiting this out. I told him that if they could not come though I would be fine if he would just build me a turbo to the S60 specs and polish the compressor housing we would be strait. We will see what happens.
Also, one question. My engine has no oil in it accept what I put on the cylinder walls and components when it was assembled. That has been over a month. Do I need to put oil in it ASAP or will it be OK for now?
- .RJ - 09-12-2006
If you are worried about it, spray the cylinder walls down with fogging oil or WD40, but you should be fine.
- Andy - 09-12-2006
I use Marvel mystery oil. Poured a capful down each cylinder.
- .RJ - 09-12-2006
Pouring oil into the cylinder wont coat the walls to prevent pitting/rust...
- Andy - 09-12-2006
.RJ Wrote:Pouring oil into the cylinder wont coat the walls to prevent pitting/rust...
I assume Jeff used Cosmoline since he's doing this at his shop. Cosmoline sticks, prevents rusting and doesn't rinse off. A little light oil helps with lubricating the rings so it doesn't scar the walls.
- JustinG - 09-12-2006
what turbo did you order?????? cause they have been slow on shipping for us as well, but we may be able to do something for you cause we have someone on the inside
- WRXtranceformed - 09-12-2006
Or here's another question, why Turbonetics? Why not go with another company's turbo of similar or better quality that can supply it to you right away? Are you getting hooked up or something?
- Jeff - 09-12-2006
No, I paid $700 for it. They are the people who supplied Mopar with the original super 60. It has the proper flange on it to bolt to a Chrysler exhaust manifold (modified t3)
- Jeff - 09-12-2006
white97dsm Wrote:what turbo did you order?????? cause they have been slow on shipping for us as well, but we may be able to do something for you cause we have someone on the inside
I have a number to call Chris' dealer rep at Turbonetics. Every dealer has "someone on the inside" but thanks anyway.
- Jeff - 09-13-2006
Ok, Told Chris at TU I think he should cancel my order and build me a super 60 in house. I told him I would like a free upgrade to the "quick spool wheel" for my time on this.
- Jeff - 09-17-2006
I'm calling tomorrow to cancel my turbo order. F#$K this guy. I have had it with messing around with it. I need the $550ish I have tied up back now anyway. The van's tranny may have crapped out today and I need a head for the omni...f%*k a turbo for now...I'll just let the Daytona sit. It feels like I have let this guy borrow $500 for a month for free...pisses me off.