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+-- Forum: Technical (https://forum.mmsports.org/forumdisplay.php?fid=4)
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+--- Thread: Project Hatch (/showthread.php?tid=3782)
- Feersty - 05-07-2007
My policy works best.
- Mike - 05-12-2007
Front wheel bearings and LBJs came in yesterday... I've never touched the front of the car so it's all new to me, but surprising how easy it all came apart. Still need a popping tool today, but should have the knuckles off to a machine shop this afternoon maybe? And have the car back together Monday night.
If that doesn't solve the knocking sound that I've experienced under braking and acceleration since I bought the car, I guess I'll try replacing the upper arms and then finally the tie-rods, which both seem to be in good shape
hrug:Still need to adjust my harness... it fits funny, but it's a pain because you have to loosen the floor bolts to make "major" adjustments.
AAAND the sticky rear brake... Depending on how these balljoints pop, I may just leave this for the next event... It's not even close to a constant drag or anything that raises temps much if it all...
Chatterbox will be fully purchased and installed in my helmet by 2pm today.
Slowly, slowly.
- ScottyB - 05-12-2007
Mike Wrote:If that doesn't solve the knocking sound that I've experienced under braking and acceleration since I bought the car, I guess I'll try replacing the upper arms and then finally the tie-rods, which both seem to be in good shape
i HATE chasing noises. good luck, don't do too many changes at once
- Andy - 05-12-2007
For the harnesses, why don't you use eyebolts with snap-in ends? Makes your life that much easier.
- navin - 05-12-2007
Popper tool = ghey
8lb Sledge will do the job, just loosen the castle nut, rethread, and find the 'ridges' on the LCA and pound it.
- ziich - 05-12-2007
ditto on hammer time
- Mike - 05-12-2007
shit... can of worms... every joint in the suspension is 100% toast... sooo i need to make a large order tonight (upper arm, tie rod end) and apparently the wheel bearings i ordered are not the right ones... eyeing it up, doesn't look like they'd ever fit...
any input? there are like 4 options and they are all the same price...
edit: removed a nasty, long link.
- Mike - 05-12-2007
edit: looks like there might be some sort of cap on the backside? when i take that off it looks like the bearing might fit in? rj?
- .RJ - 05-12-2007
Mike Wrote:edit: looks like there might be some sort of cap on the backside? when i take that off it looks like the bearing might fit in? rj?
Front or rear?
Front bearings have a circlip and a dust cap... rears do not
Ninja edit: there's a few companies on ebay that sell a front kit with swaybar bushings, upper arms, tie rod ends and a few other pieces fairly reasonably
- Mike - 05-12-2007
front... it must just be the dustcap making the opening look smaller than the bearing.
i'm leaning towards skunks2 ucas so i can get camber adjustment and oem tie rod ends. thoughts? other options?
oh, and where is the shop that you use? would they want the dustcap off before i drop the knuckle off?
- .RJ - 05-12-2007
fairfax auto parts on lee hwy (right before cedar lane) - just drop off the knuckle, they'll do the rest.
- Andy - 05-13-2007
.RJ Wrote:fairfax auto parts on lee hwy (right before cedar lane) - just drop off the knuckle, they'll do the rest.
They wanted 60 bucks per corner. For that price, you would save money by buying your own press. My father in law has a 12 ton press and it popped out my wheel bearings fine.
Harbor freight 12 ton press=115 bucks
Bearing separator=13 bucks
- Mike - 05-13-2007
skunk2 pro-series upper control arms = 169 shipped on ebay... outer tie rod ends? 75 shipped, but i'm gonna see if local stealership can get them to me faster for same or less.
rj, what is the price on fairfax auto parts? i'm really at their mercy at this point, and it isn't something i plan on doing often so i'm not too worried about price.
- Mike - 05-13-2007
other side pulled in 20 minutes... good thing i decided to attack it, the wheel bearings aren't too smooth on it. couldn't break the lca loose from the knuckle so fairfax auto parts gets to do that too
oil currently draining...
looks like i might get her done in time for this weekend! yay!
- Mike - 05-15-2007
friday, friday, friday... good thing i took it off. wheel bearing and balljoints being pressed in at fairfax auto parts right now... was actually $90/side. i'll put oil back in it whenever, and upper control arms + tie rod ends are scheduled for friday delivery. crazy!
just need to be sure to mark my tie rod ends upon removal so i don't throw my alignment off.
- Mike - 05-15-2007
well, fuck.
just picked up the knuckles from the shop. guy tells me the balljoints look bent on the ends, but they didn't do it. i don't really pay much attention, but when i get home they are clearly damaged and i can't thread the castle nuts on either.
i kind of find it hard to believe two balljoints straight from honda are damaged in the exact same way AND why would the machine shop press them in if they realized they were worthless?
the honda parts place wants the balljoints shipped back, but a) they're pressed in b) i'm sure they're not going to accept fault after a machine shop has touched them, c) i don't f'ing have time for that.
i'm kind of leaning towards the machine shop being at fault. am i wrong in thinking they should offer free removal of the damaged parts, and free installation of new ones once i get them? even then, i'm out $70 for new balljoints and i still can't make this weekend.
fuck. what would you do?
- Andy - 05-15-2007
Mike Wrote:well, fuck.
just picked up the knuckles from the shop. guy tells me the balljoints look bent on the ends, but they didn't do it. i don't really pay much attention, but when i get home they are clearly damaged and i can't thread the castle nuts on either.
i kind of find it hard to believe two balljoints straight from honda are damaged in the exact same way AND why would the machine shop press them in if they realized they were worthless?
the honda parts place wants the balljoints shipped back, but a) they're pressed in b) i'm sure they're not going to accept fault after a machine shop has touched them, c) i don't f'ing have time for that.
i'm kind of leaning towards the machine shop being at fault. am i wrong in thinking they should offer free removal of the damaged parts, and free installation of new ones once i get them? even then, i'm out $70 for new balljoints and i still can't make this weekend.
fuck. what would you do?
You're shit out of luck. No way a shop is going to accept fault unless you get a forensic car expert or some shit. Well, I'll concede that FFX maybe decent human beings and if you bring them the receipt from Honda, they make split the difference with you or something.
Sorry Mike. I say you take the S2k.
Also, Advance auto parts rents a ball joint press tool that works really well.
- ScottyB - 05-15-2007
it's worth it to ask but i can't imagine the shop is going to accept much, if any responsibility. take the time to voice something to them though....maybe if they know you are a customer who's willing to work with them instead of just pointing a finger they will try to negotiate with you on good faith.
it sounds utterly obvious, however, that they damaged your product. some newb was on the press or something and probably realized after the fact that he bent them. in my case, after dropping hundred of dollars on a short block only to be sent the wrong one....no matter how much money you plunk down shops will still screw stuff up in any way possible.
- Mike - 05-15-2007
i realize i'm pretty much hosed on the cost of parts, but i also think they should have not attempted to install parts so clearly damaged. had they not, parts would be returnable to honda AND i would have not had to pay installation.
sooo...
i fully expect them to remove/install new ones for free.
edit: s2000 is not going to the track... sorry.
- Mike - 05-16-2007
worst case scenario: $55 for new balljoints @ advance + $55 to have them pressed in
most likely scenario: $55 for new balljoints @ advance + free installation since they really did goof by installing broken shit
best scenario: the above PLUS honda takes the bad joints back, admits fault, and refunds my money... i'dactually net a few dollars on this one since advance balljoints are cheaper than OEM.
any hate on advance balljoints?